Description

William Playfair, designed 1820-4; No 38 built between 1823 and early 1830s. Part of extremely long 121-bay palace front terrace of townhouses with arched and rusticated ground floor; to centre, 3-storey section punctuated by three 3-storey and attic Corinthian colonnaded pavilions; to left and right flanking 3-storey balustraded sections leading to 3-storey sections with 3-storey and attic Ionic colonnaded pavilions; 2-storey balustraded sections to outer left and right; basements to all houses. Droved ashlar to basement; V-chamfered rustication to ground floor; polished ashlar to upper floors; predominantly coursed squared rubble with dressed margins to rear elevation. To principal elevation: base course; dividing band between basement and ground floor; impost course to ground floor; dividing band between ground and 1st floors; to 1st floor, narrow band course broken by window to each bay. Regular fenestration to principal elevation; predominantly regular fenestration to rear elevation; to ground floor, round-headed openings in round-headed overarches.

N (PRINCIPAL) ELEVATION: 3-bay elevation; to advanced centre and right bays, 3-storey, basement and attic; to left bay, 2-storey basement and attic. To basement, windows to left and right bays and 2-leaf timber-panelled door with 3-light fanlight to centre bay; all both in segmentally headed openings. To ground floor, to left bay, steps and platt overarching basement recess leading to timber-panelled door with flanking margin lights and segmental fanlight. To upper floors to left bay: unbroken band course above 1st floor windows; eaves cornice; balustraded parapet; to roof, dormer window. To upper floors to centre and right bays: to 1st floor, giant attached Ionic columns dividing bays, supporting entablature between 2nd and attic floors; pilasters dividing bays to attic floor; eaves cornice; blocking course. Cast-iron balconnettes to 1st floor to all bays.

S (REAR) ELEVATION: 2-bay elevation. Band course dividing ground and 1st floors; cornice and band course dividing 2nd and attic floors to left bay; eaves cornice; blocking course. Small timber and glazed conservatory to ground floor.

GLAZING etc: predominantly 12-pane glazing; 17pane glazing to ground floor and 15-pane glazing to 1st floor to front elevation; 6-pane glazing to attic floors; glazing predominantly in timber sash and case windows. M-roof with central valleys; mansard to left bay to front elevation; graded grey slate; stone skews and skewputts. To E, mutual corniced ashlar ridge stack surmounted by octagonal flues; to W, mutual ridge stack; predominantly circular cans.

RAILINGS AND BOUNDARY WALLS: to front, edging basement recess and platt, stone coping surmounted by cast-iron railings with dog bars, spear-head finials and distinctive circled border. To rear, forming boundary of garden, random rubble wall with flat and saddleback coping; S end once had railings, now missing.

INTERIOR: subdivided to flats. To ground floor: to lobby, reeded pilasters framing timber-panelled dummy doors to walls, pendentived ceiling, excellent plasterwork; to former dining room, good plasterwork, black slate classical chimneypiece; remainder of ground floor much altered with few features remaining. To 1st floor: to former drawing room, white marble classical chimneypiece; moulded borders to walls; good plasterwork; shallow relief pattern to ceiling; double-width opening to front room (E) with non-original doors; Corinthian pilastered and corniced doorpieces; remainder of 1st floor much altered with few features remaining. To stairs and landing: stone cantilevered stairs with ornate cast-iron balusters, wrought-iron lantern brackets to 1st and 2nd floor landing and cast-iron tray-rest to 1st floor landing; to ground and 1st floor, pulvinated doorpieces with lion-head roundels to corners, to 2nd floor, pulvinated doorpieces with thistle carvings to corners, above stairs, round cupola surmounting sail-vaulted ceiling; good plasterwork including to ceiling.

Statement of Interest

Part of the Calton A-Group.

Currently (2003) subdivided as flats.

Royal Terrace forms part of the showpiece of Playfair's Eastern New Town (or Calton) scheme, and as such is an important example of the work of one of Scotland's leading early 19th century architects. Playfair was one of the major driving forces of the Greek Revival in Edinburgh at this time, and his public commissions such as the National Monument, the Royal Institution and the National Gallery (see separate listings) gave strength to Edinburgh's reputation of the Athens of the North. The Calton Scheme was one of his few domestic commissions, and the variety of designs, different for each street, demonstrates Playfair's expertise with the Grecian style and his characteristic punctilious attention to detail. The railings are important as their design features distinctive elements which Playfair repeated in large areas of the Calton scheme. The massive scale of Royal Terrace, in conjunction with Playfair's characteristic attention to detail (for instance the decision to site houses on one side of the Terrace only, in order to capitalise on the spectacular views), make this one of his most impressive schemes. When designing Royal Terrace, Playfair also rejected the conventional palace front with its distinctive central pavilion; he instead chose a more subtle distribution of pavilions, creating a discreet accumulation of emphasis towards the centre of the terrace through the use of attic storeys and Ionic and Corinthian Orders.

The origins of the Eastern New Town, which was to occupy the east end of Calton Hill and lands to the north of it on the ground between Easter Road and Leith Walk, lie in a 'joint plan for building' which three principal feuars (Heriot's Hospital, Trinity Hospital and Mr Allan of Hillside) entered into in 1811. In 1812 a competition was advertised for plans for laying out the grounds in question. Thirty-two plans were received, displayed and reported on by a variety of people, including eight architects. Eventually, it was decided that none of the plans was suitable. However, it was a more general report by William Stark (who died shortly after submitting it) which caught the attention of the Commissioners and formed the basis of the final scheme. Stark's central argument stressed the importance of planning around the natural contours and features of the land rather than imposing formal, symmetrical street plans upon it. After several years of little or no progress, in 1818 the Commissioners finally selected William Henry Playfair, Stark's former pupil, to plan a scheme following his master's Picturesque ideals.

The resulting scheme, presented to the Commissioners in 1819, preserved the view of and from Calton Hill by the creation of a limited triangular development of three single-sided terraces on the hill itself. These looked over a huge radial street pattern, centred on the gardens of Hillside Crescent, on the land to the north. The feuing of these lower lands started well, with Elm Row, Leopold Place, Windsor Street and the west side of Hillside Crescent being built fairly swiftly. However, demand for the feus faltered severely, due to the growing popularity of new properties being built to the west of the New Town. This had a particularly bad effect on Royal Terrace, where construction stopped for 20 years, leaving 2 large gaps in the Terrace and a further 3 unbuilt feus to the west end. The fate of the whole Calton scheme was sealed in 1838, when it was decided that feuars should pay poor-rates to both Edinburgh and Leith. This virtually halted development for the next thirty years. The result of all these problems was that very little of Playfair's original scheme was ever built. When building resumed in the 1880s, some of Playfair's original street lines were adhered to, as was the case with Hillside Crescent, and in others such as Brunton Place, Brunswick Street, Hillside Street (originally to be a longer street called Hopeton Street), and Wellington Street (also curtailed). However, due to piecemeal residential, industrial and transport developments immediately to the north, it would have been impossible to further follow Playfair's original layout, even if this had been considered desirable.

External Links

• Historic Environment Scotland Listing
• Wikidata Q17570441

External links are from the relevant listing authority and, where applicable, Wikidata. Wikidata IDs may be related buildings as well as this specific building. If you want to add or update a link, you will need to do so by editing the Wikidata entry.

Recommended Books

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  Hampshire: Winchester and the North (The Buildings of England) (Pevsner Architectural Guides: Buildings of England)
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  Hertfordshire (Pevsner Architectural Guides: Buildings of England)
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  Harrow on the Hill: A photographic portrayal of listed buildings and structures (Historic Buildings Picture Guides)
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  Listed Buildings and Other Heritage Assets
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  Derbyshire (Pevsner Architectural Guides) (Pevsner Architectural Guides: Buildings of England)